29th June Day 3

The North Atlantic continues to surprise us.

Yesterday started with beautifully clear blue skies. The sun was shining from morning until evening, making a welcome change from the damp, grey conditions we'd experienced previously. It may still be cold, but when the sun is out it lifts your spirits enormously.

We had a visit from a fishing vessel during the day. They called us on the radio to ask where we were heading.

"England," we replied.

There was a short pause, followed by what sounded like a slightly amused response. I don't think they were expecting that answer! Most boats they meet are heading to the next fishing grounds... not rowing across the Atlantic!

The wildlife continues to be absolutely incredible.

Almost every time you scan the horizon, there's something to see. A pod of dolphins breaking the surface, the distinctive tail flukes of a whale disappearing beneath the water, or the tell-tale white plume of a whale's breath hanging in the air.

They're still too far away for photographs or video, but that doesn't seem to matter. Sometimes you hear the blow before you see it. The sound rolls across the water like distant thunder and instantly makes you stop what you're doing and look around. It's impossible to describe just how special it feels sharing the ocean with these magnificent animals.

The birds have been just as entertaining.

More puffins have appeared, happily bobbing around between the waves, along with flocks of birds flying in perfect formation. At first glance they looked a bit like penguins—before we quickly remembered penguins aren't exactly known for flying! It certainly feels cold enough for them to be up here though.

The conditions themselves remain hard work.

Every now and again we find a helpful patch of current and Penny B creeps over two knots, giving us a welcome boost. But most of the time it's simply a case of putting your head down, digging deep and accepting that every mile has to be earned.

It's a beautiful place to be when the sun is shining...

...but it's still a proper slog.

One thing I definitely hadn't forgotten about ocean rowing is the appetite!

I can't seem to stop eating.

Every time I'm off shift I find myself rummaging through my snack bag looking for "just one more" treat. Hopefully I've packed enough food because at this rate I might have polished it all off before we reach the halfway point!

As evening approached, the scenery changed completely.

The fog rolled in.

Normally, from the height we're sitting above the water, you can see the horizon around four nautical miles away. Last night that disappeared completely. At times we could barely see a couple of hundred metres in front of the boat.

The fog stayed with us all night.

It muffled everything.

You could hear birds calling somewhere out in the whiteness and occasionally the unmistakable sound of marine life surfacing nearby, but there was nothing to see. It was eerie, mysterious and strangely beautiful all at the same time.

As I write this at 9am, I know the sun is up...

I just haven't got the faintest idea where it is!

---

Dawn

“Together Paul and I are rowing home — the long way round.”

Hometown Row

📩 You can have Dawn's blogs delivered directly to your inbox here:

👉 https://dawn2609.substack.com/

🌐 Or visit the website:

www.rowaurora.co.uk