Wednesday 29th July- Day 34

What a difference 24 hours can make!

After the relentless downpour finally eased at around 10am yesterday morning, the sun broke through the clouds and everything suddenly felt a lot more positive. I managed to wash and dry my clothes, my foul weather gear is finally dry again, and the famous bin bag underwear that so many of you now seem to want a pair of has been packed safely away!

The conditions remained kind throughout the day. They certainly weren’t fast, but with a bit of grit and determination we still managed a solid 62 nautical miles in the past 24 hours, so we’re really pleased with that.

The evening then treated us to one of those moments that will stay with me forever.

As the sun was setting, a huge pod of what we think were dolphins arrived to entertain us for well over half an hour. There were adults all around the boat, but it was impossible not to watch one little calf as it copied the others, occasionally launching itself clear of the water with what I am convinced was a huge smile on its face.

Before they even appeared, I could hear them from inside the stern cabin. Their clicks and squeaks travelled through the water and vibrated through the hull of the boat, almost as though they were announcing their arrival.

It’s incredibly difficult to explain just how magical moments like this are. On a whale or dolphin watching trip you’re always looking down at them from above. Out here, we’re part of their world. They choose to come and investigate us, often swimming just inches from the boat. You can hear them, feel them, and look them in the eye. It’s an experience that simply can’t be recreated any other way.

As darkness fell, the sky stayed beautifully clear, although the stars had some fierce competition. A full moon lit up the ocean so brightly that you genuinely could have read a book by its light, turning the sea into a sheet of silver stretching to the horizon.

The morning didn’t disappoint either, greeting us with another stunning sunrise to begin the day.

People often ask me why I do this.

The last 24 hours are the answer.

Yes, there are days of endless rain, leaking kit, cold, exhaustion and frustration. But then there are days like this—days that remind me exactly why I’m out here. Sharing the ocean with wildlife, watching spectacular sunsets and sunrises, rowing beneath a moonlit sky, and feeling completely immersed in nature.

This is my happy place.

Experiences like these make every difficult moment worthwhile, and they’re something that simply can’t be repeated anywhere else.

Dawn

“Together Paul and I are rowing home — the long way round.”

Hometown Row

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